21 December 2025, Moa to Holguin (by bus)
Casa Luna $24 (R432)

Last night we decided to cut out the 170 very long km between Moa and Holguin, which we were planning to split into two (impossible) days intersected by one of our accommodation-less nights, and hop a bus instead. We had already booked to spend two nights in Holguin, and managed to add an earlier third ie tonight.
So off to the terminal we went, just 2km from our accommodation, to be told there was no bus. Further enquiries led to a one-word answer, "Toyota". Outside the terminal we approached a vehicle with a roof-rack, asking our one-word question: "¿Holguin?". (Note the Spanish question marks.) "Si" was the welcome answer.
Once we agreed they would take the bikes, and we made clear we wanted a collectivo as opposed to an entire taxi to ourselves, we agreed a (very reasonable) price and settled down to await the arrival of another six passengers, the maximum allowed being eight plus the driver.
It took a little under three hours to do the distance, our bums growing numb on the narrow benches running the length of the back.
One passenger carried a small rooster, its legs tied together. When I asked if I could take a photo, he proudly displayed the bird which both he and his wife stroked on occasion with obvious affection. Shortly after we departed, a young woman sitting opposite us popped a nipple into her toddler's mouth. On the bumpy road we were entertained by the thought that the little girl was enjoying a milkshake! And soon thereafter both the bird and baby fell asleep.
Holguin is a complete surprise...