24 December 2024, Holguin to Gibara, 34km
Hostal Ultramar $20 (R360)

Myriad factors contributed to today's lovely ride between Holguín and Gibara on the coast 34km to the north.
Firstly, I am feeling much better physically; but also our spirits have been lifted by our lazy days and relatively good food in vibrant Holguín.
This morning, aside from two clumps of people waiting with extraordinary patience outside two cater-corner banks, the town was buzzing with Xmas Eve and Feliz Navidad excitement and enterprise. On the streets were mobile carts dispensing potable water, fruit and vegetables, bread. Householders sat on the pavement selling something or other from their verandah stairs. And in many places, men sat turning whole pigs on spits over open fires, or selling the results of their efforts by the weight or stuffed into a round bun.
Though hilly, the terrain trend was downhill. The weather has been cooler and less humid for several days. As we are returning to Holguín tomorrow, we packed only what we needed for one night away. Travelling light is always a boon.
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We had hunted out online a cheap accommodation option (a tad over $10 for a room), and are pleased with the clean, simple, rustic, chilled environment in which we find ourselves.
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It is thought that Columbus first made landfall in Cuba just 20km from current Gibara. In the past, Gibara was a wealthy town, with trade boats docking on the friendly side of the promontory. That changed when the railway was built. Today it is largely a sleepy village with several accommodation options and a couple of restaurants trying valiantly to encourage tourists to pay it a visit.