26 December 2024, Holguin to Las Tunas, 52km (plus 20km by camion)
Casa Yanet & Carlos, $23 (R414)

Around 72km link Holguín and Las Tunas. We cycled 27km to the hamlet of Las Calabazas (love the name), hopped a camion for 20km, then rode another 25km, arriving in Las Tunas shortly before dark, tired but happy.
The camion was an enclosed truck with a sandy floor and a door and stairs built into the side behind the cab for easy access. Our bikes were hoisted into the bed via a freight door at the back. Riding standing up on a rough road surface is an art form we have yet to master!
Our day was defined by flatter terrain, bigger farms, more transport trucks, and more shops.
In Asia, shop-houses abound. These are usually double-storey, with the shop or restaurant or massage parlour on the ground floor and the sleeping quarters upstairs. More often than not, the lounge is also located downstairs so that the family can eat, watch TV and relax, while keeping the shop section open to any passing trade for long hours.
In Cuba, a similar though less consistent system is in play. As mentioned before, some shop-houses are totally unmarked, relying on local knowledge and word of mouth. Others display a modest sign on a window or door. Some householders set out a temporary stall on the pavement. Many have converted their enclosed verandahs or tiny front rooms into permanent stores. And many others, especially in the more rural areas and smaller towns, have constructed a purpose-built store, varying greatly in size and sophistication, on their fence-line.
I have yet to locate tissues in a shop!
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Following a friend's question about the colours of Cuba and whether my photos display "photographers bias", I made a concerted effort on this day to seek out the drab. I became aware of the following:
1. Except where official offices are located in the most impressive colonial buildings, they tend to occupy modern-drab and are less appealing to photograph.
2. It requires as much energy to stop and photograph the pretty as the ugly and I tend to expend energy on the former.
3. I do on occasion photograph but do not always share the less appealing. 4. Even when at first glance a setting might appear drab, a second look will reveal a touch of colourful paint, or a pretty plant, or an engaging symmetry...