1985/7 Japan

A coffee shop in south Kyoto
R4-60 for one cup of coffee!!
12 October 1986, Sunday afternoon

Greetings!

I have just been to a fascinating festival held at one of the smaller temples in south Kyoto. During which 25 children dressed as a variety of Buddhas ‘guided’ some humans heavenward. The ‘Buddhas’ were clothes in elaborate costumes in rich purples and reds and gold brocade. Each wore a gold mask and white gloves and performed slow stylized movements along the elevated walkway in the temple grounds. They were preceded by priests in purple and white with shaven heads. And old somber ladies in simple black kimonos each carrying a tasseled temple bell. And old men in hessian knickerbockers in varying wheaty shades. With beads and pompoms around their necks and tiny black hats perched on their foreheads and held there by a string contraption. Each carried an enormous conch shell with which they added to the haunting music created by the bells and cymbals. At one point it began to rain and I sat for awhile under the walkway along with lots of camera-toting Japanese and waited for the rain to abate and watched the purple, green, yellow, red and white wind-sock-come-flag-come-kite blowing wildly in the wind at the end of its long bamboo pole. A lovely way to spend an afternoon.

I have bought myself a bicycle as I have no idea where my old one is and I have taught my first 2½ hours. At a school ten minutes from where I live – a rare treat indeed – where they pay ¥3000 per hour instead of the ¥4000 I am accustomed to, but at the current exchange rate that now is $20. One of the foreigners is vacating his room on the 17th, but until then I am staying rent free in Michael’s room as he is away in China. Prices have gone up and I must really make a concerted effort to get as much work as soon as possible now.

I last wrote from Nikko where I visited an incredible temple. According to my guide book one of the gates in the temple grounds is the most elaborately decorated structure in the world. So as you can imagine it is impossible to describe. I particularly liked one of the temple ceilings which is divided into 100 squares by small dark wood beams. In each square is painted a different and beautiful dragon. Also loved the five-tiered pagoda in red and blue and green wood. It has no foundations – just stands on a stone base and is made solid apparently by an enormous beam suspended inside from the fourth tier.

Thence to the Bandai area where an enormous volcanic explosion in 1888 blocked the course of two rivers creating in the process dozens of tiny lakes – each one said to be a different colour. Here, despite my aching ankle, I walked a four km trail thru’ some of the lakes and the woods that surround them. And only encountered five people along the way – all walking in the opposite direction. So except for a couple of minutes I was totally alone – also a rare treat.

Have you resigned from your job yet, mom? If so, what now? That’s all for this week. Keep in touch.

Love to oupa and Ruby and the both of you
Gail